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Cotton Textile Processing
Sustainable solutions for a better future

June, 2009
C.K. Chow
Textile Asia

It is fitting, in this United Nations International Year of Natural Fibres, that our attention is again directed to cotton, the leading natural textile fibre, through a conference on innovations and technologies for cotton textile processing sponsored by Cotton Incorporated and Cotton Council International.

The chairman of the Sustainable fashion Business consortium addressing the
opening session of the two-day conference

Representatives of leading companies in the textile supply chain around the world gathered in Hong Kong in mid-May for a two-day conference organised by Cotton Incorporated to discuss innovative technologies and sustainable solutions that can help reduce the environmental impact of cotton textile processing. Addressing this conference, called Cotton Textile Processing: Sustainable Solutions for a Better Future, Pat-Nie Woo, who is the chairman of the Sustainable Fashion Business Consortium (SFBC) as well as director of the Hong Kong-based Central Textiles, went straight to the heart of the issue. Sustainability, he said, could not be attained alone in isolation; sustainability is about partnership; about ownership; meaning that it is something that each of us needs to do simultaneously. And he was convinced that sustainability is here to stay with governments demanding industries to comply with stricter conditions about environmental protection.

Also addressing the conference, Mark Messura, the executive vice president of Cotton Inc., explained Cotton Inc’s position on matters related to environmental issues and the role it is playing and will continue to play for environmental protection. He made clear at the outset that cotton textile processing is facing unprecedented challenges towards the use of natural resources; water and energy in particular. This, he pointed out, critically affects textile processing. “The way we respond to these challenges, as individual organisations and as a collective industry, will determine how we, as a global corporation and global industry, fare in the decades ahead.” Describing textile industry as a tremendously creative industry in design, manufacturing and logistics as well as one of the very best of all the consumer products industries in marketing and advertising, he said that the industry has the capacity for excellence, and it shared “a common responsibility to address sustainable issues.” He cited a study commissioned by the Importer Support Program of the Cotton Board and Cotton Inc. The study found that many of the innovative technologies needed to reduce pollution emission from cotton textile processing already exist. Therefore, he said, “We do not have to wait and invest in the creation of new technology. Rather, we need to find out the way to get the industry to make use of the existing technologies.” This, Mr Messura said, was the primary objective of the conference as there is a dire need “to raise the awareness level among the industry on these leading-edge technologies and solutions to

Mark Messura, speaking at the opening

Cotton – many environmental advantages

Cotton has an environmental footprint, like every fibre, all manufacturing operations, and all retail operations. “There is no such thing as zero impact,” Mr Messura stressed. So, while cotton’s environmental footprint cannot be erased entirely it is possible to manage it wisely and reduce it. According to Mr Messura, cotton also offers many environmental advantages—from responsible farming practices in the United States to consumer care and product disposal. What is needed now is that cotton as an industry must stay ahead of consumers on environmental issues. “Manufacturers, brands, retailers must lead environmentally responsible practices,” he stressed. Mr Messura said that Cotton Inc, like many other organisations, believes that the quest for sustainability is not about an endpoint or a finish line. “It is about seeking solutions to reduce our environmental impact, and then measuring our progress, benchmarking a sound management towards reducing that impact.” Changes in technology, he pointed out, offer an opportunity to continuously evaluate the best technical solutions and alternatives for reducing the footprint. “We are today to take responsibility, to become more aware of the technological solutions that already exist, and most importantly, to take action,” he added.

Technical sessions

Nico Van Schoot at the conference

This two-day conference included six technical sessions, each focussed on a specific topic—namely, novel technologies, coloration evolution, low input processing, alternative sustainable technologies, reduce, reuse and recycle, and meeting the market expectations. The discussion at these technical sessions indicated that sustainability aspects, like energy saving and water saving, are key concerns of the textile industry; and novel technologies, in turn, show the ways to achieve such savings. Thus these sessions provided a golden opportunity for leading companies to report on their novel technologies and products.

Nico van Schoot, a senior product and marketing manager for textiles, garments and leather at Genencor, for instance, talked about Genencor’s new technology for biobleaching of textiles, PrimaGreen which, according to him, is a sustainable way to process textiles and garments, with lower use of water and energy. Enzymes are made from renewable resources and are biodegradable, and can replace harsh corrosive chemicals, he pointed out. Genencor cooperates with Huntsman Textile Effects to sell the PrimaGreen EcoWhite enzyme.

Han Kuilderd of Novozymes introduced his company’s Cellusoft Combi which is said to be a novel neutral biopolishing enzyme that can also be used in the dyeing process. Novozymes, he said, invests a great deal for research and development. It is also the first to introduce this kind of neutral biopolishing enzyme. The cost of biopolishing with Cellusoft Combi is substantially lower than conventional biopolishing, said Mr Kuilderd. In addition, it is also possible to combine desizing with bioscouring, or combine bioscouring with biopolishing.

Innovative and environment-friendly printing

Joe Chan of Shanghai Newtech Fabric Printing spoke of a new patented technology—Cold Transper Printing, or ‘Cooltrans’ Printing. Cold transfer is different from ‘heat transfer’ which, Mr Chan said, can only be used on polyester. Making use of paper-printing technology, this innovative textile printing process is said to be environmental-friendly, fool-proof, and highly efficient. Using this technology, the extent of chemical oxygen demand (COD) of wastewater is low, and the machine is efficient because it need not be stopped at all. Besides, the printing results contain no alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) and have good wet, dry, and light fastness. This new technology which is suitable to fabrics of all kind is not only ‘Greentech’, but also ‘Colourfultech’, Mr Chan said. Its only shortcoming is that it is still not optimum for printing very bright or fluorescent colours.

Coloration and eco-friendly bleaching

Albert Llort, the head of application and promotion of sulfur dyes at Clariant, introduced the company’s innovative sulphur dye technologies. The continuous dyeing Pad-Ox process is designed with environmental concerns. It uses a simple and versatile process while providing the same performance as existing processes. Eco-bleaching can be done with Clariant’s advanced denim concept, which is based on two new sulphur dyes, Diresul Indinavy RDT-B liq and Diresul Indiblack RDT-2R liq, to complete the range that focuses on complying with environmental factors. Moreover, Mr Llort said that exhaust dyeing is an all-in-one process that needs no dosing; some 70% of the dyeing bath can be reduced. Only a small quantity of dyestuff and chemicals is needed.

According to DyStar’s head of business development - C&P Ulrich Hanxleden, some 40% of the total dissolved solids (TDS) in wastewater discharge can be reduced by using DyStar’s Ultra RGB technology. This technology can also help reduce colour and chemical oxygen demand, as well as TSD in dyehouse effluent loading, he pointed out.

BASF’s Cyclanon XC-W New is said to be an innovative washing/after-soaping agent. Having analysed the factors that affect the removal of hydrolysate from substrate and from liquor, Gary Wilkins, BASF’s manager for technical marketing in the textile sector as well as its Asia Technical Center for Textiles, said that Cyclanon XC-W New is “a non return valve” for reactive dyes. However, universal application of this new washing agent, he said, was not possible. It very much depends on the cellulose type and density of the fabric. BASF’s Eco-Efficiency Analysis, according to Mr Wilkins, is a comprehensive method of evaluating products and processes.

Martin Szeto, global business development director of Huntsman Textile Effects said that sustainability is the company’s “day to day practice”. While sustainability is “an inconvenient truth”, the best technologies for achieving it already exist. Putting these technologies to use will call for changing belief and habit. Together with Lode Vermeersch, Huntsman Textile Effects’ global head project management group Pretreatment & FWA, the company introduced sustainable wet processing with its Gentle Power Bleach (GPB), an enzyme-based peroxide bleach that allows lowtemperature bleaching of textiles at a neutral pH range. Soft and natural handle, fast and permanent effect, good sewability of the product, etc., are said to be the advantages of using the GPB process. The process can be optimised to reduce consumption, to save energy, to reduce weight loss, etc.

Low input processing

The managing director of Gaston Systems Inc, Christoph Aurich, talked about chemical foam system (CFS) and application. Showing diagrams to explain the benefits of CFS, such as the CFS Applicator, Mr Aurich said that CFS is unique in its ability to place chemicals into or onto substrates in a controlled manner. With CFS, foam is under pressure and highly controlled.

Speaking about less water for dyeing and more water for life, Carmina Ferri, consultant at Tonello’s R&D department, introduced the company’s low liquor ratio jet dyeing system. In this system, dyeing bath is injected through a special nozzle; there is no water inside the drum. Water consumption is extremely reduced. The result, according to her, is better reproducibility and high-quality garments.

Zhang Wangsun, a dyeing and finishing specialist at Fong’s, said that Fong’s THEN Airflow Synergy machine is “the most advanced piece dyeing machine”, and is “the only piece dyeing with a true hot drain.” In it, liquor ratio is reduced to a minimum because air is used for transport, said Dr Zhang. This innovative machine mainly features a salt dissolving tank, a hot water tank and offers such major benefits as shorter liquor ratio and exact reproducibility.

Benninger’s chief technology officer, Jürgen Ströhle, thought that sustainability means “holistic consideration”. As opposed to a long path in what was described in a book called ‘The Travels of a T-shirt in the global economy’, he said that Benninger has tried to optimise the textile finishing process in a two-step concept: 1. Avoiding, but at least optimising; 2. Recycling (‘end-of-the-pipe’ solution).

David Hasanat, the chairman and CEO of the Bangladeshbased Viyellatex Group, saw sustainability as simple common sense spearheaded by choice and initiatives. The strengths of his company, Mr Hasanat said, were positive wills, constructive initiatives, simple innovative technologies, and persistent drive for green initiatives. He thought it was important to transform new ideas into positive initiatives and implement them for attaining continuous improvement.

Alternative sustainable technologies

Dr Tim McCraw, managing director for the digital textile printing business of Yuhan-Kimberly Limited, described digital textile printing (DTP) as a total solution, for printing is one of the worse pollutants in terms of water consumption. According to him, DTP is easy to use and environmental-friendly in terms of pollutants like COD (chemical oxygen demand). Yuhan-Kimberly’s NanoColorants, offering eight colours, require no pre-processing. In terms of colour matching, it is as simply as wysiwyg—what you see is what you get—Mr McCraw said. NanoColorants are applicable to embroidery, wallpaper, T-shirts, slippers, and personalised bedding.

Mark Harris, founder and CEO of Fiberzone Licensing, said that Eco or green fashion is clothes that take into account the environment, the health of consumers and the working conditions. “Eco fashion has trickled down to mainstream,” he said. “Mass appeal and availability are happening. Recycling is an everyday life nowadays.” However, between fashion and sustainability, he thought fashion was still king in terms of decision-making. Ozone is oxygen in a highly reactive form, Mr Harris said, adding that Fiberzone technology is environmentally friendly, and does not affect screen printing or embroidery tops.

Dr Min Zhu of Cotton Inc introduced the development of Cold Pad Batch (CPB) in cotton wet processing. CPB, she said, is a sustainable dyeing method in terms of its benefits, like low water usage, as well as low energy usage because no steaming is required. Other benefits are: low investment cost, short set-up time, excellent wet fastness, and uniform dye quality. As many variables in CPB dyeing need to be controlled, companies have to choose a suitable dyeing program, she added.

Mary Ankeny, Cotton Inc.’s director for dyeing research, discussed cationic capabilities in preparation (remove contamination) and dyeing (dyes, Alkali). Treating cotton with cationic can obtain tone-on-tone states on fabrics, garments, rugs, etc. As far as levelness is concerned, alkali can be used to slow the strike and improve levelness, Ms Ankeny added.

Reduce, reuse and recycle

Tony Webber, sales director at Adaptive Control, Inc., highlighted the importance of getting it right for the first time in the dyeing process to save time and cost. For this, the process, dyes, chemicals etc. need to be controlled. Benchmarking is important in process control; and a good process control system can enhance performance and help save the planet, he said.

James K.S. Chan, sales manager of Kuans Micro-Auto Co in Taiwan, identified the major problems with non-automated dyeing process—like incorrect weighing of dyestuff, operators taking the wrong dyestuff and chemicals, and reading incorrect weight and product. Kuans’ auto and semi-auto dispensing systems are helpful in avoiding human errors, reducing mistakes and waste. Most of the dyestuffs come in powder form; they need to be dissolved for use. So his company supplies powder dissolving and distribution systems. It also provides powder as well as liquid dispensing systems.

Professor Xi Danli of Donghua University said that wastewater reuse is becoming essential for the industry in China. There are standards for wastewater desizing, wastewater discharge (GB4287), etc. Energy consumption of China’s textile industry accounts for some 4.3% of the world’s consumption, and China’s textile industry ranks second among all industries in the country for COD emission, said Prof Xi.

Thomas Komauer, textile division sales director of Strahm Hi-Tex Systems, introduced the work of this Switzerlandbased company on energy recovery. According to Mr Komauer, Strahm is engaged in engineering and manufacturing relax and shrink dyes, as well as energy recovery technology. The company also conducts energy assessments, energy audit and machine modification, and develops new technology. “Energy recovery will always pay back,” he said. Therefore, sustainable solutions are beneficial to both the environment and producers. Meeting market expectations

Levi Strauss & Co, according to its director of environment, health and safety, Sean Cady, was the first apparel company to issue a code of conduct in 1991, called the ‘Business Partner Terms of Engagement’. In the following years, the company continued to take efforts, like the establishment of the GEG (global effluent guidelines) and RSL (restricted substances list), the launching of eco jeans, conducting life cycle assessments for their products, etc. Now, Levi Strauss wants to go one step further: “To restore the environment,” said Mr Cady. Levi Strauss is a founding member of BICEP (Business for Innovative Climate and Energy Policy). On carbon trading, Mr Cady thought that at present there does not seem to have any specific carbon trading scheme focused on the textile industry. In response, Pat-nie Woo (Central Textiles) added, the regulatory framework of carbon remains in a state of flux; therefore he suggested that companies do their homework now to investigate their own carbon footprint first.

Dean Turner, senior vice president for Cotton Inc’s global account management said that recent studies done by Cotton Inc and Cotton Council International have found that many consumers think that natural fibres are the safest for the environment, and Mr Turner was pleased with the result that cotton is the “best of the best”. For many consumers, garments that are made of natural fibres are the most environmental friendly clothing.

This two-day conference demonstrated that companies today are increasingly looking for sustainable manufacturing methods and ways to control their production cost. It also provided an opportunity to share information on the innovative technologies and sustainable solutions that can help reduce the environmental footprint of cotton textile processing as well as for participants to network for further cooperation among them. According to Cotton Inc, global cotton consumption will increase in the years ahead with world production rising to an estimated 140.5 million bales (30.59 million metric tons) a year within a decade.

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